Trains from UB to Beijing run 3 times a week during season:
Mongolian train on Thursday, Chinese on Saturday and on Sunday one can board
train from Moscow. We expected it to be of at least the same standard as the
one that brought us here, but got sorely disappointed. The train comprised of
Chinese coaches, filthy outside and inside. The interior of the compartment was
primitive, with fixed bottom beds, thin backrest straight on the wall, small
nets above for handy items and a fan, suggesting aircon is not available. We
were lucky the day was overcast, as being the first coach after Diesel engine,
opening windows on the corridor resulted in fumes getting into. Window in our
compartment wouldn't open anyway. Toilets were horrible, together with smoke
creating another source of stink. In Chinese coaches it is allowed to smoke at
the entrances, but because neither of windows there open, the smoke gets onto
the main corridor.
Once left UB the track was meandering between those lovely
mountains, but soon it flattened. The further south, the fewer signs of life,
to the extent the only inhabited places were small settlements built to serve
railway passings (it is single track line).
The rest was plain boring plain desert.
In Zamin-Uud customs control took very long, we were not allowed to
alight the train at all, so were left with full bladders (toilets closed
before arriving there) and plenty of worthless togrogs.
The worst was unfortunately yet to happen. The toilets were
closed when going on the Chinese side, even though we were pointlessly standing
good 15 minutes in the middle of nowhere. Then the Chinese border control
started, and even though finished before bogies change time, we were not
allowed to leave the train and wait for it on the platform, but were rolled to
the works instead. Manoeuvring was a separate issue: the loco gives signals for
each operation, and the Chinese have terribly noisy horns. Being in the first
coach meant every minute we were reminded something very important was about to
happen. Usually it was yet another earthquake, as the train is built by
smashing a coach against a coach. Again, as the first coach we were entertained
for the whole manoeuvring period, the last section was luckier as that part was
left at the platform earlier. Finally at midnight, after 6 hours without access
to a toilet we could use one at Erlian station
Disaster.
 |
| Not onlybogies, but also the coupling is replaced at the border |
Why on earth people cannot be left on a platform while bogies are changed? Or why border control cannot be carried out when that is happening, as all the passengers are trapped 3m above ground anyway? But the worst of Chinese railways faults is to use coaches like that for a 7-day trip between two major capitals. And that was not an exception, they are actually painted with the route, so clearly designated for the job. I cannot imagine covering the whole Moscow-Beijing route in such conditions, so if you think about boarding train 24 for your trans Siberian/ trans Mongolian trip, think again.
In China the train goes through a new route, and it is indeed
newly built track, going straight through the mountains (plenty of tunnels)
and over valleys. That allowed to cut travel time by 3 hours and the train 24
arrives to Beijing at 11am. The views
through the windows are really nice on that stretch.
Useful tips:
Avoid that train!
Honestly, not a lot of sightseeing and
disgraceful conditions. Also running not daily, so affects trip planning
flexibility.In these Chinese coaches electricity sockets were rated 48V DC. They looked like standard European sockets, accepted plugs but obviously nothing was happening. If you travel that train (or inland China) make sure you have extra battery booster or prepare suitable converter.
Next: Beijing
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