TransIrUBBeBAMBa (6) - Train 362 Irkutsk - Naushki - Ulaanbaatar

Rule 1: all far distance trains in Russia travel accordingly to Moscow time.

I entered 17.02 departure time into trip's schedule at early days and it just stayed like that, I forgot to add a note that it is Moscow, not local time! Obviously no harm was done, we just gained lazy afternoon, but until getting to the train station I was a bit anxious the train is already gone.

On the displays the train is shown as 362 Irkutsk - Naushki, but group of direct coaches (that day there were 4, reports suggest that it may be as few as 1) is pulled to Sukhbataar and connected to Mongolian train to UB. The train departed from platform 1, which is accessible from street side only. The train was ready for boarding only about 30 minutes before departure, and that is when the gates to the platform opened. There are 4 beds in a compartment, upper ones and the table can be folded away. Space under lower seats is divided into a chest-like storage and extra space, there are also neat little storages in the headrests and cavity above corridor, so little worry about luggage space.

If you forgot anything - don't worry, it can be bought from provadtnitsya. 

I cannot really complain anything, maybe only that sockets were only 2, on the corridor.

The carriage was equipped in the air condition, and it was running until we arrived to Naushki.

We have got the first compartment, as I read it is the best since:

• It's close to provadtnitsya
• It's close to samovar
• It's close to toilet

With the experience I would suggest compartment 4 as the best place, because:

• One doesn't interact with provadtnitsya much
• We didn't need to use samovar a lot
• It is within the same distance to both toilets
• There are fewer people passing to toilet and samovar, that next to the first compartment
• There is less vibration and noise from tracks ( the first cabin is located at the bogie)
• There is a socket right at the door (that may vary depending on the type of carriage though)

Samovar -the hot heart of the coach

Since the train leaves Irkutsk late (22.02 local time), we enjoyed sightseeing from the first stop in Ulan-Ude to the last station on Russian side: Naushki. If there are still some wooden houses left in Irkutsk, villages in far east are solely made of wood. They look like oversized alotments and I feel it is not far from truth: with high food prices, what you grow is what you eat...

If Irkutsk took us back to early 90's, those climats were more like 19th century...

Wells not with pumps, but still with shadoofs

 

Useful hints:

How to buy tickets for train 362 Irkutsk - Ulaanbaatar? Unlike other Russian long distance trains, the 362 directly to UB, being international, cannot be bought through RZD website. That leaves us a pray for travel agents, who usually add hefty fees to set ticket price just for a little hassle of walking to the train station. Of course if you have courage/flexibility (places are limited and disappearing fast during the season) you can do ityourself. We had fixed trip schedule, so I checked with Real Russia, Legend Tours and others, before getting recommendation from Jack Sheremetoff from Baikal hostel. Our tickets were organised by Elena Serebrennikova of  NewBaikalWay travel agency from Irkutsk and I cannot praise her service highly enough: we could communicate in English, we could pay with PayPal (idea of international transfer to Russia - no SWIFT or IBAN- via shared EUR account at recipient bank knocked down even my accountant), and we had the tickets bough immediately the reservation opened (60 days in advance), thus we could choose lower sits in the 1st compartment. For 2nd class cabin we paid 135 EUR per adult and 80 EUR for child (for reference, the actual adult ticket price was 3412 RUB + 760RUB platskarta/seat reservation)

What time train 362 arrives in UB? We know train 362 leaves from Irkutsk at 17.02 Moscow time (22.02 local), but what about arrival to Ulaanbaatar? As the poster on the train shows, clock moves from Moscow to Mongolian time when crossing the boarder, so after leaving at 13.50 (Moscow) from Naushki, it arrives 18.32 at Sukhbataar. In respect to local time, the clock actually moves backwards 1 hour. Actual arrival time in Ulaanbaatar was 5.40 and that is indicated at Ulaanbaatar's train station, but nowhere else (inlucding timetable on the train!) Do not worry, locals know that well and you will be greeted at the platform regardless.  (times correct as of 07/2014)

Why is the timetable so important? It regulates your life on the train! During all long stops the toilets are locked, so make sure you finish all you businesses before that happens. That is especially important when approaching border stops!! Pay attention to first long morning stop, if necessary wake up earlier, and you will be rewarded  - I can guarantee after the whole carriage wakes up, access is limited. Long stops are also an opportunity to properly stretch legs, take some photos or shop - either on the platform or (cheaper and with more choice) local shop, one is usually located near the station.

Next: Naushki