TransIrUBBeBAMBa (19) - Summary

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That was my first that long and remote travel, so on one hand I have fresh view, on the other - I'm still relatively unexperienced.


Eastern Russia (cities): expensive, poor standard of accomodation for money. Delicious food, kingdom of plaits. Ugly architecture, but that makes kind of area of interest for a visitor. I can only recommend it only to those who had seen everything and are now into exotic places.
 

Lake Baikal: great place for active tourism. Walk along Circumbaikal line or Great Baikal Trail may be an unforgetable holiday. Because of time and money needed to get there, lakes in Alps may offer overall better value.

Ulaanbaatar: ugly and boring.

 

Mongolia (countryside): spectacular. Next time I'll hire motorbike, take a tent and enjoy modern nomad life. Easier accesible since dropping visa requirement for EU citizens

Beijing: fascinating! We will be back there to see all the things we missed, and try some more of that cuisine. Definitely not in the summer though!
 

China: beatiful mountains. On our way to the Great Wall we met tourists heading for local villages, so there must be plenty of other things to see as well. And China is vast country, so hopefully we will be able to see a bit more.
 

Trans Siberian train - that looks for me like a legend created by travel agencies. There is not much one can do on the train, views through the window aren't that spectacular (if any, when travelling through forests), cities along the route of little charm (see above). Traveling on one of Russian (firmenny) trains at least guarantees comfort, but using Moscow-Beijing service it is plain survival.
Sharing room with 3 other people and toilet with several more is everyday life for many, so I can't see any excitement in that neither.
Forget all the vodka parties and socialising: the trains are patrolled so heavy drinking is a no-no, and everybody minds their own business (using mobile/tablet/headphones). Oh, you need to know local dialect as well, as I did not experience much of English literacy in the area.
 

BAM (Baikal - Amur Mainline) - beautiful scenery, wilder area. If you love train rides (and those are still diesel operated), I would recommend it more than Transsib.

Clearly my feelings are mixed - I do not regret being in some of those places, I just feel (and recommend) for the same time or money spent, one can have nicer memories elsewhere.
One reason that could affect the perception was the intensity of travel: 5 flights, 4 long-distance train rides, hoverplane and all the local journeys, all within just 2.5 weeks - it wore us a bit.

As mentioned, we would love to come back to Mongolia and China, but spend there more time, and rather in the countryside.When we do that, we will share our memories again!

TransIrUBBeBAMBa (12) - Train 24 Ulaanbaatar - Beijing

Trains from UB to Beijing run 3 times a week during season: Mongolian train on Thursday, Chinese on Saturday and on Sunday one can board train from Moscow. We expected it to be of at least the same standard as the one that brought us here, but got sorely disappointed. The train comprised of Chinese coaches, filthy outside and inside. The interior of the compartment was primitive, with fixed bottom beds, thin backrest straight on the wall, small nets above for handy items and a fan, suggesting aircon is not available. We were lucky the day was overcast, as being the first coach after Diesel engine, opening windows on the corridor resulted in fumes getting into. Window in our compartment wouldn't open anyway. Toilets were horrible, together with smoke creating another source of stink. In Chinese coaches it is allowed to smoke at the entrances, but because neither of windows there open, the smoke gets onto the main corridor.

Once left UB the track was meandering between those lovely mountains, but soon it flattened. The further south, the fewer signs of life, to the extent the only inhabited places were small settlements built to serve railway passings (it is single track line).

The rest was plain boring plain desert.

In Zamin-Uud customs control took very long, we were not allowed to alight the train at all, so were left with full bladders (toilets closed before arriving there) and plenty of worthless togrogs.

The worst was unfortunately yet to happen. The toilets were closed when going on the Chinese side, even though we were pointlessly standing good 15 minutes in the middle of nowhere. Then the Chinese border control started, and even though finished before bogies change time, we were not allowed to leave the train and wait for it on the platform, but were rolled to the works instead. Manoeuvring was a separate issue: the loco gives signals for each operation, and the Chinese have terribly noisy horns. Being in the first coach meant every minute we were reminded something very important was about to happen. Usually it was yet another earthquake, as the train is built by smashing a coach against a coach. Again, as the first coach we were entertained for the whole manoeuvring period, the last section was luckier as that part was left at the platform earlier. Finally at midnight, after 6 hours without access to a toilet we could use one at Erlian station

Disaster.

Not onlybogies, but also the coupling is replaced at the border

 

Why on earth people cannot be left on a platform while bogies are changed? Or why border control cannot be carried out when that is happening, as all the passengers are trapped 3m above ground anyway? But the worst of Chinese railways faults is to use coaches like that for a 7-day trip between two major capitals. And that was not an exception, they are actually painted with the route, so clearly designated for the job. I cannot imagine covering the whole Moscow-Beijing route in such conditions, so if you think about boarding train 24 for your trans Siberian/ trans Mongolian trip, think again.

In China the train goes through a new route, and it is indeed newly built track, going straight through the mountains (plenty of tunnels) and over valleys. That allowed to cut travel time by 3 hours and the train 24 arrives to Beijing at 11am.  The views through the windows are really nice on that stretch.

Useful tips: 

Avoid that train!

Honestly, not a lot of sightseeing and disgraceful conditions. Also running not daily, so affects trip planning flexibility.

In these Chinese coaches electricity sockets were rated 48V DC. They looked like standard European  sockets, accepted plugs but obviously nothing was happening. If you travel that train (or inland China) make sure you have extra battery booster or prepare suitable converter. 

Next: Beijing

TransIrUBBeBAMBa (11) - Ulaanbaatar day 2: Zaisan Memorial, Bogd Khaan Palace museum, Sükhbaatar Square

The second day in UB day we started with trip Zaisan hill and Zaisan memorial located on top of it. Panorama of ugly Ulaanbaatar is probably not worth climbing, but the whole place, and especially socrealistic paintings on the inner ring of the monument are definitely it's highlight.

Next was Bogd Khan palace. It is actually a temple, so similarly to the Choijin Lama, not very appreciated by ourselves. The winter palace was more interesting, being home to exhibits of things owned by Bogd Khan: clothes, furniture etc. For me the highlight was hand painted map of Ulaanbaatar in 1912, showing temples and gers only, and that shows how fast and how much the place changed. The palace now is also surrounded by tall buildings dwarfing it.

 We stopped by at the central square of Ulaanbaatar: Sükhbaatar Square on the way.

Then we went to International Intelectual Museum. That is a very unusual place, starting with the building itself. The wooded puzzles are mind boggling indeed, there is also collection of similar brain-breaking games from all over the world, unusual chess tables and rather ugly collection of toys. 

Next was National Museum of Mongolia, with nice display showing chronologically history and development of Mongolian territory, traditions, and culture.

The last one was supposed to be the museum of natural history with dinosaur skeletons, but it stays closed indefinitely. 

Being tired after the whole day of wandering, we decided to just eat something rather than to pursue the best Mongolian food. To our surprise we might have found exactly that: we walked into Apollon Pub (Peace Avenue northern side, between Sükhbaatar Square and State Department Store, close to a bus station), and we got fantastic buuz and khuushuur. We waited about 20 minutes, so I suspect they were actually made on site. Delicious! 

Useful tips: 

How to get to Zaisan Hill/Zaisan memorial? Take buses 7 or 43 from Sükhbaatar Square towards Zaisan, and get off when the hill is right on your left. If you miss it don't worry, get off at the next (and last) stop and walk or just return. The path begins behind transformers building and clearly was partially reclaimed by the new development.

On the other side of the hill, lower part of the steps, together with other statues forming part of the monument are now (08/2014) on a building site, and the road to the upper car park has now got a barrier, although I couldn't see any fee collection.

 
Next: Train 24 Ulaanbaatar - Beijing