TransIrUBBeBAMBa (3) - Irkutsk

Irkutsk welcomed us with rain. As flight from Moscow, despite taking whole night (or 6 h to be precise, as 5 time zones are lost in the process) is domestic, there was no control and after crossing not very large corridor one can go home. The bags are delivered to a conveyor belt located in a separate hall. We had to waiteuntil it opened, and it happened only when the belt started. When leaving the hall, tags were checked agains the luggage and collected. Also amongst the bags traveling that flight, good 3/4 were wrapped. Quite different habits to what we were accustomed to.

One of interesting findings in the arrival hall was contact lenses vending machine.

Our hostel sent us telephone number for recommended taxi company and suggested to ask a member of staff. Well the only person in hi-vis jacket pointed her phone explaining that she can't call from it. I left the building to see if any taxi of that company is outside and that was a mistake, because that was strictly exit, one way only. I asked one of waiting taxis about a price, but 600 RUB for something looking like half a hour walk seemed dear (on our return we paid 125 RUB). To get back to the terminal I had to walk to its other end just to immediately enter scanner and control. I approached what was described as information, but my request was satisfied only by eyesight pointing next desk. There, after hearing word 'taxi' I was given another number, and then confirmed mine was also right. Not very helpful. So I decided to trust local transport company stating a trolleybus would arrive shortly and indeed within 5 minutes it appeared. It ended us costing 12 RUB each for 5 mins ride.

Most of troleybuses in Irkutsk aren't that new.

The way to the hostel and area around it was completely gray and frankly not much changed the following day when the Sun returned.

View from hostel window - disused school only partially occupied by a restaurant

The rest of the first day in Irkutsk we spent cruising/sleeping

On day 3, still in the very wrong time zone and knackered after the travel we only woke up at 10. We took a tram to the centre: solo wagon covered with dents and scratches, with wooden seats but most of all a conductor with the unhappiest face I've ever seen. 

After long wobbly ride ( track condition) we got to the Central Market. That is a very lively, colourful and busy place. After collecting train tickets for the next leg of the trip we decided to try to go to Taltsy and Listvyanka and leave the last day for Irkutsk. At the bus station it appeared we missed a bus, so changed the plans and went for a lunch. The bar right opposite the bus station building was clean, equipped in wi-fi and nice food: pelmeni dumplings as a safe choice and cabbage in batter as a tasty surprise.

 

 

Having half a day to spare we decided to go to the old town. It actually did not take that long to see all the major attractions and get to the river, however had we have more time, we'd follow a tourist sightseeing route (5 km long, begins at the southern end of Karl Marx street). 

 

 

 

Old glory times are seen throughout the city and so the remnants of picturesque wooden architecture. The issue is it is all mixed with modern arrangements and results in visual mess. Some of the wooden houses are modernised and modified, losing completely it's look, so it is hard to say whether to be happy they survived or sad they actually are lost too. I've read that many are skewed because of permafrost they were built on, but I'm sure it is rather total lack of maintenance as well as development of nearby roads (some houses got burried to window level). 

Some of the buildings are being refurbished, or rather completely redeveloped, as I saw only mid-sized 2-storey ones to be rebuilt, with most of the detail lost, making it just a mockup.

The district our hostel was located is a concrete monster spotted with some modern developments. It looks like most of the newer buildings are supposed to have exposed bricks, but quality of bricklayers work begs for render to be placed on top. Roads are full of potholes, with very tall and not very well lined up kerbs. Network of roads and walk paths crossing the lawns just adds to the messy character and proves lack of planning of the development.  

Useful hints:

1. How tow get to Irkutsk centre from the airport on a budget: use trolleybus. There are actually two lines getting to the airport, but with separate end stops. We used line 6, the timetable isn't very clear but on Sunday when we arrived the 7.04 service appeared as it suggested (column Аэропорт, upper table Будни for workdays, lower Выходные for weekends), giving cheap and convenient connection for flight from Moscow.

For most, route 4 going right down to Irkutsk centre will be the choice. Fare is 12RUB (as of 07/2014), you might be charged for luggage at the same rate as well.

2. How to get around Irkutsk: trams win! They go slowly, but offer breathing space unlike marshrutkas. Fare (12 RUB a ride) paid to a conductor ( they'll come to collect) or if not present then the driver collects at exit ( through front door only). 

If going from bus station to the train station (tram seems to be a wise choice due to space for luggage) do nor rely on 4a but either pick 4 and the change or walk 5 mins to take line 1 directly.

3. Where to stay in Irkutsk: that depends on your plans and budget. We chose Irkutsk Hostel on Baykalskaya (Solnechnyi district), as it was close to the airport and pier, with good public transport links to the centre. They rent apartments, which in principle are flats (the hostel occupies lower floors of the relatively modern building), so they are nicely spacious. The rooms were fully equipped, there was everything one needs (rinning hot water, fridge, TV), but... Each and every thing came with some issue: toilet not flushing, shower freestanding on an uneven floor, floor vinyl being tripping hazard, and so on and so forth. Only one of the reception ladies spoke English, so that did not help much... After all, we went there for adventure, so those things made for 'climat' rather than a problem.

Next: Listvyanka